It’s worth watching.

Say more?

NixOS supports headless LUKS, which was an improvement for me in my last distro-hop. The NixOS wiki even has an example of running a TOR Onion service from initrd to accept a LUKS unlock credential.

Link: Spectrum

Regulation is slow, full of drama, scales poorly, & can result in a legal thicket that teams of lawyers can navigate better than the individuals it’s intended to advocate for. Decriminalizing interoperability is faster & can handle most of the small/simple cases, freeing up our community/legislative resources to focus on the most important regulatory needs.

Yeah, that’s normal. That’s the seam – where each layer starts/stops. Yours don’t look any worse than mine.

Sometimes you can tweak settings to reduce them a bit, but the only way to avoid them completely is to print in spiral/vase mode (which is very limiting: 1 contiguous perimeter, no infill).

More importantly: You can control where they appear on the part! Your slicer may have settings like ‘nearest’ , ‘random’, ‘aligned’, ‘rear’, or may have a way to paint on the part in the UI where the seams should be. Seams are clearly visible when they’re in the middle of an otherwise-smooth expanse like the side of your boat there, but are barely noticeable if you put them on a corner.

X11 for xdotool. ydotool doesn’t support (& can’t really support with it’s current architecture) retrieving information like the current mouse location, current window, window dimensions & titles. Also, normal (unprivileged) user ydotool use requires udev rules or session scripts and/or running a ydotool daemon & many distros don’t yet ship with this Just Working.

X11 for Alt-F2 r to restart Gnome Shell without ending the whole session. This is a useful workaround for a variety of Gnome bugs.

• LineageOS Dialer app
• LineageOS Messaging app

As a bed scraper, I use a putty knife that I’ve sharpened on one side (chisel grind, #4).

Before printing too-sticky materials (like TPU on my PEI bed), I put down a layer of glue stick. This is sticky enough for successful prints, but easily removed at the end of the print.

1. Paper tokens: Produce 100 billion authentication tokens (could be passwords, could be private keys of signed certificates), print them on thick paper, fold them up, publicly stir them in giant vats at their central manufacturing location before distributing them to show that no record is being kept of where each token is being geographically routed to, and the have them freely available in giant buckets at any establishment that already does age-checks for any other reason (bars, grocery stores that sell alcohol or tobacco, etc.). The customer does the usual age-verification ritual, then reaches into the bucket and themselves randomly selects any reasonable number of paper tokens to take with them. It should be obvious to all parties that no record is being kept of which human took which token.

2. Require these tokens to be used for something besides porn access. Maybe for filing your taxes, opening bank accounts, voting, or online alcohol / tobacco purchases. This way, people requesting these tokens do not divulge that they are pornography viewers.

Check out how Winston Moy’s video on making a topographic map of Colorado. They mention these data sources:

• The one you already found
• The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS)
• Terrain2STL, which uses Consultative Group for International Agricultural Research - Consortium for Spatial Information (CGIAR-CSI) data

OpenSCAD’s surface primitive can turn height maps into STL files.

You may have to trim the state boundaries yourself. :(

systemd lid switch behavior is configured with HandleLidSwitch=, HandleLidSwitchExternalPower=, HandleLidSwitchDocked= in /etc/systemd/logind.conf

Any sane compiler will simplify this into

    function cosmicRayDetector() {
      while(true) {
      }
    }

C++ may further ‘simplify’ this into

    function cosmicRayDetector() {
      return
    }

I accidentally the timezone.

I got a Prusa (MK2s) six years ago and it’s been really, really great. Unfortunately, your budget restriction rules out the current model.

If you can get access to a printer at a friend’s house, a library, a school, a workplace, a makerspace, etc., I would suggest not buying a printer while totally new to 3D printing. Do some 3D printing for awhile. Then, on the basis of that experience, decide if you want to commit to having a good printer at a slightly higher price point.

400€ is really very restrictive. Commercial 3D printers are 10,000€ to 100,000€. Prusa’s printers are extremely good for their modest ~900€ price.

If you do decide to get a Prusa, I recommend the kit over the assembled option. It’s cheaper, and the familiarity you get with its components and construction during assembly gives you the power of fearless repair and tinkering – you’ve already assembled it once, so disassembling it and reassembling it for repair or upgrade is no big deal.